Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 15, purple haze
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 17 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch and fisherman’s rib.
CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
DECREASE TIP-1 (for sides of front/back piece):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased), knit until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
DECREASE TIP-2 (for neck on front piece):
Decrease 1 stitch after the 1 stitch as follows: slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch before the 1 stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased) and finish with knit 1.
INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 4. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
FISHERMAN’S RIB:
ROW 1: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, finish with knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 2: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, knit together the yarn over and the slipped stitch *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, finish with 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl and 1 stitch in garter stitch.
ROW 3: 1 stitch in garter stitch, * knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to purl *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left (including the yarn over), knit the yarn over and slipped stitch together, 1 stitch in garter stitch.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 upwards.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The front and back pieces are worked separately. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle. The neck is worked in the round with circular needle.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 80-83-89-98-104-113 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 7 mm and Air.
Work rib (= knit 1 / purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece.
When the rib measures 4 cm, continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 8 cm decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in each side of the piece – read DECREASE TIP-1.
Decrease like this every 6-6-9-6-9-9 cm a total of 5-5-4-5-4-4 times = 70-73-81-88-96-105 stitches.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm, cast off 2-2-4-6-6-8 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 66-69-73-76-84-89 stitches.
Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece.
When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm cast off the middle 26-27-29-30-32-33 stitches for neck = 20-21-22-23-26-28 stitches left on each shoulder.
Each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as before until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the cast-on edge. Cast off with knit. Work the other shoulder in the same way.
FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for back piece until the piece measures 42-44-44-46-46-48 cm = 66-69-73-76-84-89 stitches. Now cast off the middle 20-21-23-24-26-27 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately = 23-24-25-26-29-31 stitches left on each shoulder.
On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside 1 stitch for neck – read DECREASE TIP-2! Decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 3 times = 20-21-22-23-26-28 stitches.
Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as before until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the cast-on edge. Cast off with knit. Work the other shoulder in the same way.
SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth with circular needle.
Cast on 44-47-47-50-50-53 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side of the piece) with circular needle size 4 mm and Air. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side of the piece. When the rib measures 7 cm, adjust so that the next row is from the right side, work 1 more row of rib but, AT THE SAME TIME increase 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 55-59-59-63-63-67 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work FISHERMAN’S RIB – read description above.
Continue until the piece measures 39 cm. Now continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side AT THE SAME TIME as on the first row you decrease 5-7-4-5-2-3 stitches evenly on row = 50-52-55-58-61-64 stitches. Cast off when the sleeve measures 51-51-51-50-49-48 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams in outermost loop of outermost stitch. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew sleeve and side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.
NECK:
Knit up approx. 63 to 84 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm (make sure the number of stitches is divisible by 3). Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) in the round over all stitches for 2 cm. Then cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Diagram
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
600-650-750-800-850-950 g colour 07, light brown
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with texture (A.2) = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 60 or 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are made from the right side! Decrease in the same way as in diagrams A.1 and A.7 as follows:
Decrease after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the 2nd stitch on the row is worked in garter stitch as follows: Knit 2 together.
Decrease after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the 2nd stitch on the row is knitted as follows: Purl 2 together.
Decrease before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the next to last stitch on the row is in garter stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch when the next to last stitch on the row is knitted as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 together.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections and sewn together to finish. The piece is worked bottom up.
FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 129-137-145-153-165-177 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work pattern from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read description above, work A.1 over the first 8 stitches, A.2 over the next 50-54-58-62-68-74 stitches, A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.4 over the next 7 stitches (= the middle 7 stitches on the row), A.5 over the next 2 stitches, A.6 over the next 50-54-58-62-68-74 stitches, A.7 over the next 8 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. The number of stitches stays the same, but the pattern is displaced. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the diagrams have been completed in height, continue the pattern in the same way, i.e. increase stitches in A.3 and A.5 and decrease stitches in A.1 and A.7. When the piece measures approx. 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm from the cast-on edge and up the side of the piece – adjust so that you finish after 5 rows after an increase, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work pattern as before over the first 64-68-72-76-82-88 stitches on the row, work 2 stitches in the next stitch (= mid-stitch), work pattern as before over the last 64-68-72-76-82-88 stitches on the row = 130-138-146-154-166-178 stitches. Insert a marker thread in each side of the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Place the first 65-69-73-77-83-89 stitches (seen from the right side) on a thread for left shoulder and work the right shoulder.
RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 65-69-73-77-83-89 stitches. Work 1 row back from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck), continue pattern A.6 until there is 1 stitch left and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 10-10-11-11-12-12 times and when the piece measures 10-11-11-12-13-14 cm from the marker thread cast off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches for the armhole = 53-57-60-62-67-73 stitches left on shoulder. When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm from the marker thread (= 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm from where you cast off for the armhole) work short rows in pattern as before from the wrong side as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, tighten strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work back.
ROW 3: Work until there are 4 more stitches left on the row than the previous time (= 6 stitches), tighten strand.
ROW 4: Work back.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 and turn when there are 4-4-4-4-4-4 more stitches left than on the previous row 7-11-10-13-12-15 more times (= a total of 8-12-11-14-13-16 times) and then when there are 5-3-5-0-3-3 more stitches left than on the previous row 3-1-2-0-3-1 times. Work 1 ridge over all stitches on row where you decrease 5 stitches evenly on row = 48-52-55-57-62-68 stitches left on shoulder. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.
LEFT SHOULDER:
= 65-69-73-77-83-89 stitches. Work 1 row back from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (towards armhole), continue pattern A.6 until there are 2 stitches left and work 2 edge stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck). AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side - remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th row a total of 10-10-11-11-12-12 times and when the piece measures 10-11-11-12-13-14 cm from the marker thread cast off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches for the armhole = 53-57-60-62-67-73 stitches left on shoulder. When the piece measures 17-18-19-20-21-22 cm from the marker thread (= 7-7-8-8-8-8 cm from where you cast off for the armhole) work short rows in pattern as before from the right side as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, tighten strand.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work back.
ROW 3: Work until there are 4 more stitches left than the previous time (= 6 stitches), tighten strand.
ROW 4: Work back.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 and turn when there are 4-4-4-4-4-4 more stitches left than the previous row 7-11-10-13-12-15 more times (= a total of 8-12-11-14-13-16 times) and then when there are 5-3-5-0-3-3 more stitches left than the previous time 3-1-2-0-3-1 times. Work 1 ridge over all stitches on row where you decrease 5 stitches evenly on row = 48-52-55-57-62-68 stitches left on shoulder. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.
BACK PIECE:
Cast on 121-129-137-145-157-169 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When the piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm – adjust to match the front piece where you cast off stitches for the armholes, and cast off 2-2-2-4-4-4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows for the armholes in each side = 117-125-133-137-149-161 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm. Now work garter stitch over the middle 25-25-27-27-29-29 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches, cast off the middle 21-21-23-23-25-25 stitches for neck and each shoulder is finished separately = 48-52-55-57-62-68 stitches on each shoulder. Continue with texture and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side and 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck. When the piece measures 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm work 1 ridge over all stitches. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The piece measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Cast on 45-45-49-49-53-53 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Now work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 over the next 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches, A.3 over the next 2 stitches, A.4 over the middle 7 stitches on the sleeve, A.5 over the next 2 stitches, A.6 over the next 16-16-18-18-20-20 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this.
You increase stitches on the middle of sleeve in diagrams A.3 and A.5. When the sleeve measures 7 cm decrease 1 stitch in each side - remember DECREASE TIP! NOTE: In size XXXL you do not decrease, but continue to work texture and increase stitches as before. Decrease like this every 10th-12th-18th-30th-28th-0 row a total of 10-8-6-4-4-0 times. When the diagrams have been completed in height continue to increase in the middle of the sleeve as before until you have increased a total of 20-20-18-18-18-16 times and there are 65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches on the needle. Then continue with texture until the sleeve measures 40-39-38-37-36-33 cm. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Sew sleeves to body inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the body and inside the cast-off edge on the sleeve. Sew sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
600-700-750-800-900-1000 g colour 11, red
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for the garment.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
Diagram A.1b/A.3b measures approx. 10 cm in width.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 4th and 5th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
Increase by making 1 yarn over. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked top down on circular needle. Work first a yoke in the round on circular needle. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Continue in the round on circular needle until approx. 16 cm remain, then work front and back piece separately (= vent in the side). Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on 88-92-96-104-108-112 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. When piece measures 2 cm, increase 20-20-24-20-24-28 stitches evenly on next round - read INCREASE TIP-1 = 108-112-120-124-132-140 stitches.
Purl 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work as follows (round begins mid back):
Half back piece: Work A.1a (= 17 stitches), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan).
Right sleeve: Work A.2 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), A.2 over the next 7 stitches
Front piece: Work 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3a (= 17 stitches) (= mid front), A.1a over the next 17 stitches, 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan).
Left sleeve: Work A.2 over the next 7 stitches, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-4-4-6-6-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), A.2 over the next 7 stitches
Half back piece: Work 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased for raglan), 2-2-4-4-6-8 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.3a over the last 17 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work yarn overs twisted on each side of A.2 to avoid holes!
Continue pattern like this and increase for raglan, increase differently on front/back piece and sleeves (first increase as explained above), increase stitches on each side of A.2 as follows:
Front/back piece: Increase 1 stitch every other round 18-22-25-29-32-36 times in total (= 2 stitches increase on each front/back piece).
Sleeve: Increase 1 stitch every other round 20-23-26-27-28-30 times in total (= 2 stitches increase on each sleeve).
When A.1a and A.3a have been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1b (= 32 stitches) over A.1a and A.3b (= 32 stitches) over A.3a.
When all increases are done there are 320-352-384-408-432-464 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm from cast-on edge. Now divide piece for body and sleeves as follows:
Half back piece: Work A.1b (= 32 stitches), work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch.
Right sleeve: Slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Front piece: Work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3b (= 32 stitches) (= mid back), A.1b (= 32 stitches), 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch.
Left sleeve: Slip the next 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Half back piece: Work 20-24-29-33-38-44 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.3b (= 32 stitches).
BODY:
= 224-240-264-280-304-328 stitches.
Work A.3b (= 32 stitches) as before, 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 (= 14 stitches = mid under sleeve), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch. A.1b and A.3b as before (= 64 stitches in total), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch, A.4 over the next 14 stitches (= mid under sleeve), 17-21-27-31-37-43 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with A.1b (= 32 stitches) as before.
Continue pattern like this.
When piece measures 2 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of every A.4 (= 4 stitches increased) - read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 2 cm 10 times in total = 264-280-304-320-344-368 stitches. When piece measures 22 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, divide front and back piece, to make a vent in each side (= approx. 16 cm).
Divide the piece in the middle of each A.4 (= 132-140-152-160-172-184 stitches on each front/back piece).
BACK PIECE:
Now work back and forth.
Continue with half pattern A.4 (= 7 stitches), stocking stitch, A.1b and A.3b as before until piece measures 36 cm from where body was divided from sleeves, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, for 2 cm (= 16 cm vent). Cast off by knitting. Piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm in total from shoulder.
FRONT PIECE:
Work as back piece.
SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 56-64-70-74-76-80 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve = 64-72-80-84-88-92 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve.
Continue with pattern A.2 (on each side of marker thread) and stocking stitch, but decrease A.2 as follows: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread – read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased) on every other round and increase 1 stitch on every other round by making a yarn over after first A.2 and before last A.2 (= 2 stitches increased), i.e. the stitches under sleeve are decreased and the stitches in stocking stitch are increased. Knit the increased stitches twisted on next round, then work them in stocking stitch. When sleeve measures 2 cm from where sleeve was divided for body, do not increase stitches on next round with increase/decrease, i.e. decrease 2 stitches.
Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1-1 cm 10-13-16-17-18-19 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches (when A.2 has been decreased in both sides, stitches are no longer increased). When sleeve measures 34-33-31-29-28-26 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, increase 1-2-0-1-2-0 stitches evenly on next round = 45-48-48-51-54-54 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib = knit 1/purl 2. When sleeve measures 39-38-36-34-33-31 cm from where sleeve was divided from body, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve the same way.
Materials:
300-350-350-400-450-450 g colour 80, rose
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 01, off white
Or use:
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour 32, dark rose
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 01, off white
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
NEEDLES:
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM – length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM - length 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the tension becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. You can use a larger needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.
KNITTING TIP-2:
It is important that the knitting tension is also maintained in height or the yoke will be too short and the armholes too small!
INCREASE/DECREASE TIP:
All increases/decreases are worked from the right side!
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches), minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 27) = 3.8.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing knit approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch together.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose right diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 1 (= the stitch with the marker thread), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLE:
Work buttonhole on right band from the right side. The bottom buttonhole should be placed approx. 2 cm from the bottom edge and the top one approx. 7-8-8-8-9-9 cm from the button hole in the neck. Adjust the placing of the buttonholes so that they are worked in purl sections (seen from the right side).
1 buttonhole = purl 2 together, 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JACKET – QUICK SUMMARY OF THE WORK:
Neck, yoke and body are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. When the neck is finished, cast off the band stitches and continue working with 1 edge stitch in each side. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down; change to double pointed needles when necessary. To finish, knit up stitches along mid front for the bands.
NECK:
Cast on 116-120-124-132-136-144 stitches (including 6 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm and pink. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this. When the neck measures approx. 1½ cm work 1 buttonhole at the end of a row from the right side as follows: Work until you have 5 stitches left on the row, purl 2 together, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole. Continue with rib until the neck measures approx. 3 cm. Change to circular needle size 4 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Cast off the first 6 stitches (= the band), knit to end of row, turn piece, cast off the first 6 stitches (= the band) and purl to end of row = 104-108-112-120-124-132 stitches on needle including 1 edge stitch in each side. Work the yoke as described below.
YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2! The first row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 2 stitches left on the row and at the same time increase 27-31-35-35-39-47 stitches evenly spaced over these stitches – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP, work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 131-139-147-155-163-179 stitches on the needle.
Continue with A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side – there is now room for 32-34-36-38-40-44 repeats of A.1A of 4 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1A increase evenly spaced as described below – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (you have already increased by arrow-1).
On row with arrow-2 increase 32-32-32-32-40-40 stitches evenly spaced = 163-171-179-187-203-219 stitches (there is now room for 20-21-22-23-25-27 repeats of A.1A of 8 stitches).
On row with arrow-3 increase 32-40-40-40-40-48 stitches evenly spaced = 195-211-219-227-243-267 stitches (there is now room for 24-26-27-28-30-33 repeats of A.1A of 8 stitches).
On row with arrow-4 increase 32-32-40-48-48-40 stitches evenly spaced = 227-243-259-275-291-307 stitches (there is now room for 14-15-16-17-18-19 repeats of A.1A of 16 stitches).
On row with arrow-5 increase 32-32-32-32-40-48 stitches evenly spaced (there is now room for 32-34-36-38-41-44 repeats of A.1A of 8 stitches) = 259-275-291-307-331-355 stitches.
On row with arrow-6 increase 32-32-32-24-32-32 stitches evenly spaced (there is now room for 36-38-40-41-45-48 repeats of A.1A of 8 stitches) = 291-307-323-331-363-387 stitches. The increases are now finished in sizes S, M and L.
On row with arrow-7 (just sizes XL, XXL and XXXL) increase 24-24-32 stitches evenly spaced = 291-307-323-355-387-419 stitches on needle. The increases are now finished in sizes XL, XXL and XXXL.
Continue until the last row in A.1 remains. The piece now measures 22-24-26-28-30-31 cm from cast on edge in mid front.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 40-44-46-50-56-64 stitches as shown on the last row of the diagram (= front piece), place the next 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), purl 81-89-93-101-113-129 stitches (= back piece), place the next 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-12-12-16-16 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), purl 40-44-46-50-56-64 stitches and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= front piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 179-195-211-227-259-291 stitches. The first row is worked as follows from the right side:
SIZES S, M, XL and XXL: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.2A until there are 3 stitches left on the row (= 22-24-28-32 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When A.2 has been completed work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3A until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 11-12-14-16 repeats of 16 stitches), work A.3B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue as described under ALL SIZES.
SIZES L and XXXL: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.3A until there are 2 stitches left on the row (= 13-18 repeats of 16 stitches), work A.3B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue as described under ALL SIZES.
ALL SIZES:
Continue A.3 as described above. A.3 is repeated in height as far as to where the rib begins. AT THE SAME TIME on the row marked with an arrow in A.3A increase 16 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 195-211-227-243-275-307 stitches (this increase is just on the first repeat of A.3 in height).
Continue this pattern (there is now room for 1 more repeat of A.3A in width).
Work until the piece measures approx. 29-29-29-29-29-30 cm from the division for the sleeves – finish neatly after a whole pattern section.
Knit 1 row from the right side with rose where you increase 41-41-45-49-57-61 stitches evenly spaced = 236-252-272-292-332-368 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this, with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight (if it does tighten you can make 1 yarn over after every 8th stitch at the same time as casting off - the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.
SLEEVE:
Place the 64-64-68-76-80-80 stitches from the thread on one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4 mm. In addition knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 72-72-80-88-96-96 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-12-12-16-16 stitches under the sleeve, i.e. insert the marker thread in the first stitch after the middle, count 35-35-39-43-47-47 stitches, insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch (= middle stitch). There are now 35-35-39-43-47-47 stitches left on the round after the last marker thread. Allow the marker thread to follow your work onwards. The marker thread under the sleeve will be used a little later when decreasing and the marker thread on top of sleeve will be used to count to where the pattern starts.
READ THE REST OF SLEEVE BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work the last row of A.1A so that A.1 finishes in the same way as on the body.
PATTERN:
In sizes S, M, XL, XXL work A.2A in the round (= 9-9-11-12 repeats of 8 stitches), but count out from the middle - middle stitch in A.2A should match the marker thread mid top of sleeve. When A.2 has been finished, work A.3A in the same way. In sizes L and XXXL work A.3A as soon as the last row in A.1A has been worked and you count out from the middle stitch in the same way as the other sizes.
A.3 is repeated in height until the piece measures approx. 29-28-26-23-22-21 cm from the division – finish neatly after a complete repeat of the pattern. Continue by working A.4A in the round in the same way.
DECREASE:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 3-3-3-3-2-2 cm decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-3-2-1½-1½-1½ cm a total of 14-12-16-18-20-20 times = 44-48-48-52-56-56 stitches.
When the sleeve measures approx. 39-38-36-34-33-32 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) knit 1 round with rose where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 48-52-52-56-60-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight (if it is tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 8th stitch at the same time as you cast off - the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 43-42-40-38-37-36 cm from the division down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
LEFT BAND:
Knit up stitches along the left front piece with circular needle size 3 mm and rose, i.e. start just under the neckline and knit up from the right side inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Knit up approx. 120-124-128-136-140-144 stitches (this is equivalent to approx. 25 stitches per 10 cm along the edge – the number of stitches must be divisible by 4).
The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue the rib like this for 2½-3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
RIGHT BAND:
Work the band in the same way along the right front piece, but start at the bottom of the front piece and work up to the neck. When the band measures approx. 1-1½ cm work 7 BUTTONHOLES evenly spaced - read description above. Then continue the band until it measures the same as the left band. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
600-650-700-750-850-950 g colour 32, dark rose
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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:
CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
CROCHET HOOK:
CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
The hook size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.10.
Choose diagram for your size.
CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch.
At the beginning of each row of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row of double treble crochets, replace the first double treble crochet with 4 chain stitches.
At the beginning of each row of triple treble crochets, replace the first triple treble crochet with 5 chain stitches.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth. Back and front pieces are worked separately, then you work the sleeves and pockets. All parts are sewn together to finish. An edge is worked around the neck.
BACK PIECE:
Work 94-101-108-122-129-143 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 treble crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 80-86-92-104-110-122 treble crochets.
Then work as follows from the right side:
SIZES M-XL:
Work A.1 (= 1 stitch) - read CROCHET INFORMATION above, A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 14-17 times in width and finish with A.5 over the last treble crochet. Continue this pattern onwards. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! A.1/A.3/A.5 are repeated in height.
When the piece measures approx. 37-39 cm – adjust so that the last row worked is a row of treble crochets, work the armholes as follows: Cut the strand, skip 6-12 stitches (= armhole), work 1 slip stitch in next treble crochet, 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 12-13 times in width and finish with A.5 over the next stitch (there are 6-12 stitches left on row for armhole).
You have now worked the middle 74-80 stitches on the row. On the next row work A.1 in the last stitch. Continue this pattern.
SIZES S-L-XXL-XXXL:
Work A.1 (= 1 stitches) - read CROCHET INFORMATION above, A.2 (= 3 stitches), A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 12-14-17-19 times in width, A.4 (= 3 stitches) and finish with A.5 over the last treble crochet. Continue this pattern onwards. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! A.1 to A.5 are repeated in height.
When the piece measures approx. 36-38-40-41 cm – adjust so that the last row worked is a row of treble crochets, work the armholes as follows: Cut the strand, skip 6-6-12-12 stitches (= armhole), work 1 slip stitch in next treble crochet, 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), A.2 (= 3 stitches), A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 10-12-13-15 times in width, A.4 (= 3 stitches) and finish with A.5 over the next stitch (there are 6-6-12-12 stitches left on row for armhole)
You have now worked the middle 68-80-86-98 stitches on the row. On the next row work A.1 in the last stitch. Continue this pattern.
ALL SIZES:
When the piece measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, adjust to after a row of treble crochets (= from the wrong side), finish each shoulder separately. Work 1 treble crochet in each of the first 20-23-26-23-26-32 treble crochets (= shoulder). The piece measures a total of 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm (if you have not reached the right measurement, continue with 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet to correct length), Cut and fasten strand. Skip 28-28-28-34-34-34 stitches for neck, work 1 slip stitch in next stitch and 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 1 treble crochet in each of the last 19-22-25-22-25-31 stitches. Make sure that this shoulder has the same height as the first shoulder.
FRONT PIECE:
Work as for back piece until the piece measures approx. 42-44-44-46-46-48 cm, adjust so that the last row is the last row in the diagrams (= row of treble crochets from the wrong side). Now divide the piece and finish each shoulder separately as follows:
LEFT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
The first row is worked from the right side. Work A.1, A.2 over the next 3-0-3-0-3-3 stitches, A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-24 stitches, A.6 over the next 12 stitches, turn the piece. Continue this pattern and decrease for neck according to diagram A.6. When A.6 has been worked 1 time in height there are 20-23-26-23-26-32 stitches on the last row. Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cut and fasten strand.
RIGHT SHOULDER (when garment is worn):
Now work right shoulder as follows (first row = right side):
Skip 12-12-12-18-18-18 treble crochets from where A.6 was worked (= for neck), work 1 slip stitch in next stitch, then work A.7 over the same stitch and the next 11 stitches (= a total of 12 stitches), A.3 over the next 12-18-18-18-18-24 stitches, A.4 over the next 3-0-3-0-3-3 stitches and finish with A.5 over the last stitch. Continue this pattern and decrease according to diagram A.7. When A.7 has been worked 1 time in height there are 20-23-26-23-26-32 treble crochets on the last row. Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cut and fasten strand.
SLEEVE:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Work 44-47-49-51-54-54 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from the hook (= 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4-1-3-5-2-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 36-38-40-42-44-44 treble crochets.
Work A.8 over the first treble crochet, repeat A.9 until there is 1 treble crochet left, finish with A.10 over the last treble crochet. Repeat the last 2 rows in A.8/A.9/A.10 in height to finished length. When the piece measures 7-7-8-10-10-8 cm increase 1 treble crochet in each side of the piece by working 2 treble crochets in the first and last treble crochet on the row (= 2 treble crochets increased). Increase like this every 4-4-3½-3-3-2 ½ cm a total of 11-11-12-13-13-15 times = 58-60-64-68-70-74 stitches. The increased stitches are worked into A.9 as you go. NOTE: A.8/A.10 are always worked outermost in each side of the piece. When the piece measures 48-48-47-43-43-40 cm, insert 1 marker at beginning of row; the sleeve seam will later be sewn as far as this marker and the remaining rows will be sewn to the 6-6-6-12-12-12 treble crochets on back/front piece which were skipped for the armholes in each side (= mid under sleeve). Continue back and forth until the piece measures 52-52-51-51-51-48 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Cut and fasten strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams in outermost loop of outermost stitch. Sew in the sleeves; the marker on the sleeve marks the side seam on front and back pieces and the rows after the marker are sewn to the 6-6-6-12-12-12 stitches skipped for armholes on front and back pieces. Start at bottom of sleeve and sew seams in outermost loop then sew side seams on front and back pieces. Cut and fasten all strands.
NECK:
Work an edge around the neck as follows from mid top of shoulder: Work 1 double crochet, * 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 double crochet *, work from *-* around the whole neck and adjust so that you finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet on round. Make sure the edge is not tight. Cut and fasten strand.
POCKET:
When working pockets, work according to diagram A.1 for sizes M-XL in all sizes! Work 32 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and Merino Extra Fine. Work 1 treble crochet in 4th chain stitch from the hook (= equivalent to 2 treble crochets), 1 treble crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 5 chain stitches *, work from *-* to end of row = 26 treble crochets. Then work as follows from the right side: Work A.1, A.3 (= 6 stitches) a total of 4 times in width and finish with A.5 over the last treble crochet. Work A.1/A.3/A.5 a total of 3 times in height. Cut and fasten strand. Work another pocket in the same way.
.
Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 20, peach pink
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 132 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.1. In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. every 9th and 10th stitch. Do not decrease over the bands. When increasing, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 10th stitch (on next row knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Choose diagram for your size!
The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase raglan in each transition between body and sleeves. Increase as follows:
Work as far as 1 stitch before marker thread, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. Repeat at each of the remaining transitions between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row).
On the next row (from wrong side) purl yarn overs so that there are holes. Then work the new stitches on the front and back pieces into the pattern A.2/A.3. The new stitches on the sleeves are worked in stocking stitch.
INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Start 5 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 10 stitches (marker thread sits in the middle of these 10 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): Work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left at end of row, make 1 yarn over, knit together the next 2 stitches and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the remaining 6-6-7-7-8-8 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-7½-7½-7-7 cm between each.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. It is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
YOKE:
Cast on 132-137-142-147-152-157 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Flora. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 3 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib in this way - remember BUTTONHOLE on right band – see description above. When the rib measures 3 cm knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 12-13-12-11-10-9 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 120-124-130-136-142-148 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Work 1 row from right side where you increase as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 26-28-28-31-28-31 stitches, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 4-2-5-2-10-7 times, knit 50-54-54-60-56-62 stitches, * knit 1, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 4-2-5-2-10-7 times, knit 26-28-28-31-28-31 stitches, 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 128-128-140-140-162-162 stitches on row. Knit 1 row from wrong side where all yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work PATTERN – see description above, from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 8-8-8-8-12-12 stitches), A.2 (= 11-11-14-14-16-16 stitches), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stocking stitch on each side of the marker thread), 1 yarn over, 17 stitches stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stocking stitch on each side of the marker thread), 1 yarn over, A.3 (= 11-11-14-14-16-16 stitches), A.4 (= 16-16-16-16-22-22 stitches), A.2, 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stocking stitch on each side of the marker thread),1 yarn over, 17 stitches stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches stocking stitch and insert a marker thread in the middle of these 2 stitches (= 1 stitch stocking stitch on each side of the marker thread), 1 yarn over, A.3, A.5 (= 8-8-8-8-12-12 stitches), 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work 1 row back in the same way (= 2nd row in diagrams), the yarn overs in each transition between body and sleeves are purled to leave holes.
The first increases to raglan are now finished (= 8 stitches increased). Continue the pattern in this way and increase to RAGLAN – see description above. Increase like this every 2nd row (= each row from the right side) a total of 26-30-31-37-38-42 times = 336-368-388-436-466-498 stitches.
NOTE: When A.2/A.3 has been completed in height, work the new increased stitches in each raglan in stocking stitch. The pattern in A.2/A.3 continues in height as before, i.e. the last 10-10-14-14-16-16 rows in diagram A.2/A.3 are repeated in height – NOTE!: The 2-2-2-2-3-3 cables in the diagrams are worked every 4th row to finished length. When all increases are finished, work 8-10-12-6-10-6 rows of pattern as before without increasing to raglan. The piece measures approx. 22-25-26-28-30-31 cm. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work the first 51-55-59-65-72-76 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 71-79-81-93-95-103 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches mid under sleeve, work the next 92-100-108-120-132-140 stitches (= back piece), place the next 71-79-81-93-95-103 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches mid under sleeve, work the remaining 51-55-59-65-72-76 stitches (= left front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 210-230-250-274-304-324 stitches. Insert a marker thread after 55-60-65-71-79-84 stitches in each side (= 100-110-120-132-146-156 stitches on back piece).
Continue back and forth with pattern, stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. Work stocking stitch over the new stitches cast on in each side. When piece measures 4 cm increase 2 stitches in each side (= 4 stitches increased on row) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in this way every 6th round 10 times = 250-270-290-314-344-364 stitches. When piece measures 23-22-23-23-23-24 cm change to circular needle size 2.5 mm.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work pattern as before over the next 39-39-42-42-51-51 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as all purl 2 are increased to purl 3 (= 7-7-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), work the next 42-52-56-68-66-76 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 19-19-27-25-31-31 stitches evenly over these stitches, work pattern as before over the next 78-78-84-84-100-100 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as all purl 2 are increased to purl 3 (= 11-11-11-11-15-15 stitches increased), work the next 42-52-56-68-66-76 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you increase 19-19-27-25-31-31 stitches evenly over these stitches, work pattern as before over the next 39-39-42-42-51-51 stitches AT THE SAME TIME as all purl 2 are increased to purl 3 (= 7-7-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 313-335-371-391-437-457 stitches.
Now work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work rib with (purl 3 /2 cable stitches) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, A.6 (= 23-23-27-27-29-29 stitches), work (2 cable stitches/purl 3) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, continue with (knit 2 /purl 3) over the next 67-77-87-97-97-107 stitches, work (purl 3 /2 cable stitches) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, A.7 (= 23-23-27-27-29-29 stitches), purl over purl and cable over cable over the next 19-19-19-19-27-27 stitches, A.6, work (2 cable stitches/purl 3) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, continue with (knit 2 /purl 3) over the next 67-77-87-97-97-107 stitches, work (purl 3 /2 cable stitches) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, A.7, work (2 cable stitches/ purl 3) as before over the next 10-10-10-10-15-15 stitches, finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue in this way until the rib measures 7 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight cast-off edge you can cast off with a size larger needle.
SLEEVE:
Place the 71-79-81-93-95-103 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 3 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 79-89-93-105-109-119 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 4-5-6-6-7-8 new stitches on each side of the marker thread). The start of the round is mid under sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease in this way every 8th-5th-5th-3rd-3rd-3rd round a total of 13-18-19-24-25-28 times = 53-53-55-57-59-63 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 38-35-35-33-31-31 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes because of broader shoulders). Work 1 round where you increase 12-12-15-13-11-12 stitches evenly on round = 65-65-70-70-70-75 stitches. Work rib (knit 2 /purl 3). When the rib measures 5 cm cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. To avoid a tight cast-off edge you can cast off with a size larger needle. The sleeve measures 43-40-40-38-36-36 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 01, off white
Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
CABLE NEEDLE - for cables
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9.
DECREASE TIP:
Decrease under sleeve as follows: Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP (applies to increase in the sides of body):
Begin 1 stitch before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down.
YOKE:
Cast on 86-86-94-94-102-102 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm with Puna. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. On to last round in ridge increase 20-20-24-24-28-28 stitches evenly = 106-106-118-118-130-130 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next round as follows: * A.1 (= 18 stitches), A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.3 0-0-1-1-2-2 times (= 0-0-6-6-12-12 stitches), A.4 (= 3 stitches), A.5, 1 yarn over, 12 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over *, work from *-* 2 times in total.
Continue this pattern and upwards, increase as shown in A.2 and A.4. On sleeves increase on each side of the 12 stitches in stocking stitch, increase every other round with 1 yarn over as explained above. On next round knit yarn overs to make a holes. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. Increase 8 stitches in total every other round. When A.2, A.3 and A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 170-170-182-182-194-194 stitches on needle. Work next round as follows:
* A.1 (= 18 stitches), A.6 (= 10 stitches), A.7 0-0-1-1-2-2 times (= 0-0-6-6-12-12 stitches), A.8 (= 11 stitches), A.5 (= 18 stitches), 28 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve) *, work from *-* 2 times in total. Continue this pattern upwards, and continue increases on sleeves.
Every time A.6, A.7 and A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, work 4 repetitions more of A.7 between A.6 and A.8. Continue pattern until you have increased 25-29-30-35-37-43 times in total in A.2, A.3, A.6 and A.8, and in each side on each sleeve = 306-338-358-398-426-474 stitches.
Work next round as follows: Work first 91-99-107-117-127-139 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 62-70-72-82-86-98 stitches on a stitch holder, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 91-99-107-117-127-139 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 62-70-72-82-86-98 stitches on a stitch holder, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches. Piece measures approx. 19-21-22-26-28-31 cm from cast-on edge. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 198-214-234-254-278-302 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches. Continue A.1 and A.5 as before and work in stocking stitch over the new stitches in the side. Over stitches in A.6, A.7 and A.8 (= 55-63-71-81-91-103 stitches on back piece and on front piece) work pattern according to A.9. Begin on the row in A.9 that makes the pattern fits on last pattern row in A.6 to A.8 - work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in each side in stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). Increase every 6 cm 5 times in total = 218-234-254-274-298-322 stitches. When piece measures 36-35-37-35-36-34 cm, decrease 3 stitch over each cable in A.1 and A.5 = 206-222-242-262-286-310 stitches. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off. Jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Slip stitches from sleeve back on a short circular needle size 4 mm, pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 70-78-82-92-98-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking stitch in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles. When piece measures 3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1 cm 14-17-18-22-24-29 times in total. After all decreases are done, 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches remain on round. When piece measures 44-43-42-39-38-35 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then loosely cast off by knitting. Work the other sleeve the same way.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
450-500-550-600-650-700 g colour 01, off white
Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-7-7-8-8 pieces
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.13. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. See diagram for your size in A.1, A.7, A.8 and A.12.
DECREASE TIP:
Decrease under sleeve as follows: Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).
INCREASE TIP (applies to increase in the sides of body):
Begin 1 stitch before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease first buttonhole after the 2 ridges in the neck, then decrease the next 6-6-6-6-7-7 approx. 8 cm apart.
Decrease for buttonholes on right band as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain on needle (seen from right side), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.
YOKE:
Cast on 97-97-105-105-113-113 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with Puna. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. On to last row in ridge increase 20-20-24-24-28-28 stitches evenly = 117-117-129-129-141-141 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next row as follows from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band), A.1 (= 3-3-6-6-9-9 stitches), A.2 (= 18 stitches), 1 yarn over, 12 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.3 (= 18 stitches), A.4 (= 2 stitches), A.5 0-0-1-1-2-2 times (= 0-0-6-6-12-12 stitches), A.6 (= 3 stitches), A.2, 1 yarn over, 12 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, A.3, A.7 (= 3-3-6-6-9-9 stitches), 5 stitches in garter stitch (= band). Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above.
Continue this pattern and upwards, increase as shown in A.1, A.4, A.6 and A.7. On sleeves increase on each side of the 12 stitches in stocking stitch, increase every other row with 1 yarn over as explained above. On next row purl yarn over to make hole. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. When A.1 to A.7 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 181-181-193-193-205-205 stitches on needle. Work next row as follows from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, A.8 A (= 3-3-7-7-7-7 stitches) A.8 B (= 6 stitches), A.8 C (= 2-2-1-1-4-4 stitches), A.2 as before, 28 stitches in garter stitch (= sleeve), A.3 as before, A.9 (= 10 stitches), A.10 0-0-1-1-2-2 times (= 0-0-6-6-12-12 stitches), A.11 (11 = stitches), A.2 as before, 28 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), A.3 as before, A.12 A (= 2-2-1-1-4-4 stitches), A.12 B (= 6 stitches), A.12 C (= 3-3-7-7-7-7 stitches), 5 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern upwards, and continue increases on sleeves. Every time A.8/A.12 is worked 1 time vertically work 2 repetitions more of A.8/A.12 B between A.8/A.12 A and A.8/A.12 C. Every time A.9, A.10 and A.11 have been worked 1 time vertically, work 4 repetitions more of A.10 between A.9 and A.11. Continue pattern until 25-29-30-35-37-43 increases have been done in total = 317-349-369-409-437-485 stitches.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work first 51-55-59-64-69-75 stitches (= right front piece), slip the next 62-70-72-82-86-98 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve, work the next 91-99-107-117-127-139 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 62-70-72-82-86-98 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches, work the last 51-55-59-64-69-75 stitches on round (= left front piece). Piece measures approx. 19-21-22-26-28-31 cm from cast-on edge. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!
BODY:
= 209-225-245-265-289-313 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches. Continue in garter stitch, A.2 and A.3. Over stitches in A.8, A.9, A.10, A.11 and A.12 (= 55-63-71-81-91-103 stitches on back piece and 28-32-36-41-46-52 stitches on each front piece) work pattern according to A.13. Begin on the row in A.13 that makes the pattern fits on last pattern row in A.8 to A.12 - work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in the sides in stocking stitch. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES! When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads (= 4 stitches increased). Increase every 6 cm 5 times in total = 229-245-265-285-309-333 stitches. When piece measures 36-35-37-35-36-34 cm, decrease 3 stitch over each cable in A.2 and A.3 = 217-233-253-273-297-321 stitches. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off. Jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.
Slip stitches from sleeve on a short circular needle size 4 mm, pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 70-78-82-92-98-110 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under sleeve – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease every 2½-2-2-1½-1½-1 cm 14-17-18-22-24-29 times in total. After all decreases are done, 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches remain on round. When piece measures 44-43-42-39-38-35 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then loosely cast off by knitting. Work the other sleeve the same way.
АЗМЕРЫ
38/40 (42/44) 46/48
ВАМ ПОТРЕБУЕТСЯ
Пряжа (36% шерсти, 27% шелка, 19% верблюжьей шерсти, 18% мохера; 180 м/25 г) — 450 (475) 500 г терракотовой; спицы №5,5; круговые спицы №4,5.
УЗОРЫ И СХЕМЫ
ВНИМАНИЕ!
Вязать только двойной нитью.
УЗОР ИЗ РОМБОВ
Число петель кратно 16 + 5 = вязать согл. схеме. На ней даны лицевые ряды. В изнаночных рядах петли провязывать по рисунку. Начать с петель перед раппортом, выполнить раппорт 2 раза, закончить петлями после раппорта. Постоянно повторять 1—30-й ряды.
ЛИЦЕВАЯ ГЛАДЬ
Лицевые ряды — лицевые петли, изнаночные ряды — изнаночные петли.
ПОЛУПАТЕНТНЫЙ УЗОР
Круговые ряды (четное число петель).
1-й круговой ряд: попеременно 1 лицевая, 1 изнаночная.
2-й круговой ряд: * 1 петля из нижнего ряда (= 1 лицевая, при этом ввести спицу на 1 круговой ряд ниже), 1 изнаночная, от * постоянно повторять.
Постоянно повторять 1-й и 2-й круговые ряды.
ПЛОТНОСТЬ ВЯЗАНИЯ
14,5 п. х 20,5 р. = 10 x 10 см, связано лицевой гладью;
20 п. х 20,5 р. = 10 x 10 см, связано узором из ромбов
ЫПОЛНЕНИЕ РАБОТЫ
СПИНКА
Двойной нитью набрать на спицы 89 (95) 101 петлю крестообразным набором и вязать следующим образом: кромочная, 37 п. узором из ромбов, 13 (19) 25 п. лицевой гладью, 37 п. узором из ромбов, кромочная.
Через 58,5 см = 120 рядов от начального ряда закрыть внешние по 19 (22) 25 п. плеч и оставить среднюю 51 п. для горловины.
ПЕРЕД
Вязать, как спинку.
РУКАВА
Двойной нитью набрать на спицы 61 (65) 69 петель крестообразным набором и вязать следующим образом: кромочная, 11 (13) 15 п. лицевой гладью, 37 п. узором из ромбов, 11 (13) 15 п. лицевой гладью, кромочная.
Через 44 см = 90 рядов от начального ряда закрыть все петли.
СБОРКА
Выполнить плечевые швы.
Для воротника набрать на круговые спицы оставленные по 51 петле переда и спинки и вязать двойной нитью полупатентным узором круговыми рядами, при этом в 1-м круговом ряду в области плеча прибавить по 1 петле = 104 п. Через 20 см от начала вязания воротника закрыть все петли по рисунку.
Вшить рукава, выполнить боковые швы и швы рукавов.
РАЗМЕР
38—42
ВАМ ПОТРЕБУЕТСЯ
Пряжа (100% хлопка; 90 м/50 г) — по 300 г цв. экрю и серо-зеленой; круговые спицы №5.
УЗОРЫ И СХЕМЫ
ЛИЦЕВАЯ ГЛАДЬ
Лицевые ряды — лицевые петли, изнаночные ряды — изнаночные петли.
ПЛАТОЧНАЯ ВЯЗКА
Лицевые и изнаночные ряды — лицевые петли.
УЗОР ИЗ «КОС»
Узор состоит из связанных раздельно полос по 25 петель, которые соединяются друг с другом путем перекрещиваний в 16-м и 43-м ряду схемы. Общее число петель кратно 50; вязать согл. схеме. На ней даны только лицевые ряды. В изнаночных рядах петли провязывать по рисунку или согл. инструкции. Раппорт постоянно повторять.
Внимание
После 15, 42 и 69-го рядов отсутствует соответствующий изнаночный ряд. Выполняются 2 лицевых ряда подряд. Выполнить 1 раз 1—69-й ряды, затем постоянно повторять 16—69-й ряды, при этом соблюдать последовательность цветов нитей.
ПЛОТНОСТЬ ВЯЗАНИЯ
21 п. х 26 р. = 10 x 10 см.
ВНИМАНИЕ
Джемпер до пройм вязать единым полотном. Размеры на выкройке получены при измерении модели на горизонтальной поверхности.
ВЫПОЛНЕНИЕ РАБОТЫ
Серо-зеленой нитью набрать на спицы 5 x 25 петель, нитью цв. экрю набрать на спицы 5 x 25 петель и связать по 5 полос A и B сначала на 15 рядов раздельно узором из «кос».
В 16-м ряду все полосы путем перекрещивания соединить в 1 круговой ряд, при этом раппорт постоянно повторять = 250 п.
Внимание!
В начале кругового ряда первые 6 петель, не провязывая, снять, как изнаночные, и включить их в конце кругового ряда в последнее перекрещивание кругового ряда.
Затем вновь все 10 полос вязать раздельно согл. цвету нити.
В 43-м ряду схемы вновь связать 1 круговой ряд, как в 16-м ряду схемы.
Через 37 см = 96 рядов от начального ряда разделить работу и сначала на первых 125 п. продолжить вязать спинку.
Одновременно набрать для цельновязаных рукавов с обеих сторон 1 x 39 новых петель (= согласно цвету нити раппорта 1 полоса на 25 петель и 1 внешняя полоса на 14 петель; в начале ряда рукавов располагаются 8 петель платочной вязкой и 6 петель лицевой гладью для перекрещивания, в конце ряда петли располагаются в зеркальном отображении) = 203 п.
Через 47 см = 122 ряда от начального ряда закрыть для горловины средние 13 п. и обе стороны закончить раздельно.
Следующий ряд (= ряд перекрещивания) выполнить следующим образом: по правому краю горловины сначала согл. узору вязать до последних 12 петель, затем согл. схеме выполнить перекрещивание и одновременно закрыть последние 6 п.
По левому краю горловины перекрестить первые 12 петель следующим образом: 6 петель оставить на вспомогательной спице перед работой, закрыть 6 п., затем 6 петель со вспомогательной спицы провязать 1 узелковой кромочной, 4 лицевыми, 1 изнаночной, оставшиеся петли провязать согл. узору = 89 п. с каждой стороны горловины.
Через 57,5 см = 149 рядов от начального ряда закрыть все петли по рисунку, при этом последние по 6 петель полосы оставить на вспомогательной спице за первыми 6 петлями следующей полосы, затем по 1 петле с левой спицы и со вспомогательной спицы провязать вместе лицевой и закрыть. Перед закончить аналогично.
СБОРКА
Выполнить плечевые швы только на петлях «кос». Закрытые петли «кос» по краю горловины пришить изнутри. Выполнить нижние швы рукавов.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
300-350-350-400-450-500 g colour 7815, green/turquoise
And use:
KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-200 g colour 19, dark green
Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands) = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.
WOODEN BUTTON, buffelhorn (angular) NO 537: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pieces
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 95 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 5) = 17.
In this example make 1 yarn over after approx. every 17th stitch, on next row/round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from right side.
Work until 4 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of A.2.
Increase 1 stitch on each side of A.2 as follows (= 8 increased stitches per row with increase).
Work until A.2, make 1 yarn over, work A.2, make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.
BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-6-6-6-6 buttonholes, approx. 10 cm between each.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down from mid front. An elevation in the back of neck can be worked to get a better fit so that yoke is somewhat higher in the neck. This elevation can be skipped, to make the neck the same at the front and back - see explanation on elevation in pattern. After yoke work body back and forth on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.
NECK EDGE:
Cast on 95-95-98-101-104-104 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work as follows from right side:
5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, A.1 (= 3 stitches) until 6 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this for 2 cm - remember BUTTONHOLES! Switch to circular needle size 5 mm. Work 2 ridges, at the same time on first row increase 1-5-18-19-20-24 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly) = 96-100-116-120-124-128 stitches. Now work elevation in the back of neck or start to work the yoke if you don’t want an elevation.
ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this paragraph if you do not want an elevation.
Work 48-50-58-60-62-64 stitches and insert a marker here (= mid back). Begin from right side and knit 11-11-12-13-13-14 past marker, turn, tighten yarn and purl 22-22-24-26-26-28. Turn, tighten yarn and knit 33-33-36-39-39-42, turn, tighten yarn and purl 44-44-48-52-52-56. Turn piece, tighten yarn and knit the rest of the row. Purl 1 row back from the wrong side and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
YOKE:
Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work pattern as follows AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase for RAGLAN - see explanation above (= 8 stitches increasen on row): 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 5-6-10-11-12-13 (= front piece), A.2 (= 16 stitches), knit 1 (= sleeve), A.2, knit 10-12-20-22-24-26 (= back piece), A.2, knit 1 (= sleeve), A.2, knit 5-6-10-11-12-13 (= front piece), 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Increase for raglan like this on every other row (every row from right side) 21-24-25-27-30-32 times = 264-292-316-336-364-384 stitches. After all increases for raglan continue size S with 2 rows without increase for raglan, then continue in all sizes as follows:
Piece measures 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from marker. If the piece is shorter than this, continue with pattern as before without increasing more stitches until piece have the correct measurements.
Work next row as follows (continue pattern as before): Work 41-45-47-51-55-59 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 55-61-69-71-77-79 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work the next 72-80-84-92-100-108 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 55-61-69-71-77-79 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= under sleeve), work the remaining 41-45-47-51-55-59 stitches (= front piece).
BODY:
= 166-182-194-210-230-250 stitches. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert a marker thread in each side (= the middle of the new stitches cast-on under each sleeve = 3-3-4-4-5-6 new stitches on each side of marker thread).
Continue back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front, stocking stitch and continue A.2 over the 10-10-7-8-8-9 stitches in the remaining pattern on front/back piece but on every other row make 1 yarn over at the edge of every A.2 (= towards mid front and mid back) and knit 2 together inside every A.2 (towards the sides). Number of stitches will stay the same but stitches in A.2 will gradually disappear and there will be more stitches in stocking stitch. When all stitches in A.2 are gone, continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 14th-14th-14th-14th-12th-12th row 4-4-4-4-5-5 times = 182-198-210-226-250-270 stitches. When piece measures 36-36-37-37-37-37 cm, increase 15-11-14-16-13-17 stitches evenly on next row from right side = 197-209-224-242-263-287 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 until 6 stitches remain, knit 1, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work pattern like this for 8 cm. Cast off knitting from right side. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm from shoulder and down.
SLEEVE:
Slip the 55-61-69-71-77-79 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5 mm and cast in addition on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches mid under sleeve = 61-67-77-79-87-91 stitches on needles. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Work in stocking stitch in the round at the same time decrease stitches in A.2 the same way as on body (number of stitches stays the same). When stitches in A.2 have been decreased, work stocking stitch over all stitches. When piece measures 6 cm in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6th-5th-3rd-3rd-3rd-2nd round 12-13-18-18-20-22 times in total = 37-41-41-43-47-47 stitches. When piece measures 36-35-34-33-32-31 cm, increase 5-4-4-2-1-1 stitches evenly = 42-45-45-45-48-48 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work A.1 over all stitches. When piece measures 42-41-40-39-38-37 cm, cast off all stitches by knitting. Work the other sleeve the same way.
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
900-1000-1100-1200-1300-1450 g colour no 20, plum
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 9 mm - or size needed to get 10 sts x 14 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm for rib - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
CROCHET HOOK SIZE 8 mm - for edge.
DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 536: 7-7-7-8-8-8 pieces
DARK BUFFELHORN BUTTONS NO 535: 1 piece for all sizes
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
BAND:
Work band in pattern according to diagram A.1 until finished measurements - NOTE: Slip first st at beg of every row from mid front (as if to K).
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
DECREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 73 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 13) = 5.6. I.e. in this example work alternately approx. every 4th and 5th st and every 5th and 6th st tog.
DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 4 sts before marker and K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these 4 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next row/round work YOs twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stocking st.
BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = beg from RS, slip first st as before, work 2 sts in next st (i.e. work front and back in same st = 1 st inc) and work the next 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm
SIZE M: 7, 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm
SIZE L: 9, 18, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm
SIZE XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 and 63 cm.
SIZE XXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 and 65 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51, 59 and 67 cm.
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JACKET:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front up to armholes. Then finish front and back piece separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needle/a short circular needle and work from bottom up.
BODY:
Cast on 135-147-156-168-183-195 sts (incl 7 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work first row as follows from RS: Work 7 sts BAND - see explanation above - work rib according to diagram A.2A (= 24 sts), * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from until 32 sts remain on needle, K 1, A.2B (= 24 sts) and finish with 7 sts band. Continue rib like this with 7 band sts in each side towards mid front – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. When piece measures 16 cm, work next row as follows from RS: 7 band sts as before, work A.3A (= 24 sts), work in stocking st over the next 73-85-94-106-121-133 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 13-17-18-18-21-21 sts evenly over these sts – READ DECREASE TIP-1, work A.3B (= 24 sts) and finish with 7 band sts as before = 122-130-138-150-162-174 sts. Switch to circular needle size 9 mm. Insert 2 markers in the piece; 36-38-40-43-46-49 sts in from each side (= 50-54-58-64-70-76 sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stocking st + A.3 and 7 band sts in each side towards mid front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 18 cm in all sizes, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec when piece measures 28 cm in all sizes = 114-122-130-142-154-166 sts. When piece measures 34 cm in all sizes, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc when piece measures 42-42-44-44-46-46 cm = 122-130-138-150-162-174 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, work next row from WS as follows: Work as before over the first 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts (= left front piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker), work stocking st over the next 44-48-52-58-64-70 sts (= back piece), cast off 6 sts for armhole and work as before over the remaining 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts (= right front piece). Finish front and back piece separately.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts. Continue back and forth with 7 band sts, A.3A and stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-3 times, and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-4 times = 30-31-31-32-32-33 sts on needle. Continue pattern as before with 0-0-0-1-1-2 sts in stocking st towards the armhole - NOTE: In size S there is now 1 st less in A.3A towards armhole. When piece measures 60-62-64-64-66-68 cm, slip the first 5-5-5-6-6-6 sts at beg of row from mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue with the pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME cast off for neck at beg of every row from mid front as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 21-22-22-22-22-23 sts. Work until 2 rows remain before piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from RS. On next row work sts in the two cables K tog 2 by 2 (= 8 sts dec) = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on shoulder. K 1 row from WS and cast off with K from RS. Piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm from shoulder and down.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 33-35-37-40-43-46 sts. Work as right front piece but reversed (i.e. continue in stocking st, A.3B and 7 band sts).
BACK PIECE:
44-48-52-58-64-70 sts. Work in stocking st back and forth over all sts AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-3-3-3 times, and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-4 times = 38-40-40-42-42-44 sts on needle. Continue to work until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Now cast off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 13-14-14-14-14-15 sts remain on the shoulder. Work until 1 rows remain before piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm, adjust so that next row is worked from WS. K 1 row from WS and cast off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder.
SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles bottom up, switch to a short circular needle when needed.
Cast on 24-27-27-27-30-30 sts on double pointed needles size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work rib in the round (= K 1/P 2). When rib measures 12 cm, K 1 round while dec 4-5-3-3-4-4 sts evenly = 20-22-24-24-26-26 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve) and move the marker upwards. Switch to double pointed needles size 9 mm and work in stocking st. When piece measures 14-14-14-13-13-15 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker – READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 3½-3½-3½-3-2½-2 cm 9-9-9-10-11-12 times in total = 38-40-42-44-48-50 sts. When piece measures 45-44-44-42-41-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off the middle 6 sts mid under sleeve and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Continue with stocking st and cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 2 sts 2 times in all sizes, 1 st 2-2-2-4-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 54-54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, sleeve measures approx. 55-55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 40 to 48 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. K 1 row from WS while at the same time inc evenly to 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Work 3 rows in stocking st, K 1 row from WS and 3 rows in stocking st, then cast off. Fold the neck edge double towards the WS and fasten with neat stitches.
COLLAR:
Beg from RS and pick up 1 st in every P st where neck edge was folded on circular needle size 9 mm with 1 strand Eskimo = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Then work in garter st back and forth with 2 strands in Eskimo. AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side (inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted to avoid holes). Inc like this every other row (i.e. every row from RS), 4 times in total = 56-58-60-62-64-66 sts. When collar measures 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm, cast off with K from RS.
CROCHET BORDER:
Work a finishing edge along front pieces and around collar on hook size 8 mm with 1 strand Eskimo as follows: Beg from RS at the bottom of right front piece, work 1 dc in first st, * 1 ch, skip 1 st/row, 1 dc in next st/row *, repeat from *-* up along entire right front piece, around the collar and then along left front piece. Fasten off.
MORE ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. Sew on the small button approx. 8-9-10-10-11-11 cm from the top along neck line. Button this through crochet edge in the corner on collar - see picture.
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